A couple’s purchase of a longtime custom butcher business helps bring family closer.
By Stu Watson
Nothing about 16 years of installing and repairing cellphone towers suggested to Jason Johnston that he would ever dive with gusto into the trade of custom cut butchery. Nearly two years after he and his wife, Toria, stumbled onto the opportunity to buy Mountain Valley Meat Service, Jason smiles as he ponders the transformation.
He and his family were living in Odell, looking for property to build a house when Toria found herself talking with Pat Marrick, the longtime owner of Mountain Valley Meat Service.
Toria had been a 4H leader for 19 years, and had her kids at Pat’s facility on Miller Road to learn about grading wholecarcass meat. “We said, ‘Sell us your property,’” Toria says. “And he said, ‘It comes with a business.’”
Jason had been hurt in an accident and no longer could drive long distances. He wanted more time with Toria and their three children: Zayleah, 11, Wyatt, 5, and Rylen, 7 months.
“I was gone five to seven days a week,” Jason says. “It was time for a change.” Jason fishes and hunts, but had never done any professional butchery. The Marricks had wanted to sell for a while, and were willing to train a replacement.
“We didn’t want to see it shut down,” Jason says. “Pat said, ‘I’ll train you, and after four weeks, you’re on your own.’” Deal done. “I like learning and figuring out new and better ways to do things,” Jason says. The couple knew the valley needed the butcher, which does slaughter, custom cuts on all farm animals and game, and specialty preparations such as sausage and smoked meats. “We’re doing 15 beef a week,” Jason says, in midOctober.
“We’re also doing that many pigs.” Sixty deer hang in cold storage, waiting for their turn. “I had to stop taking them a week ago,” Jason says. “We took 110 deer this season. We ran out of room.” After the surge of business following hunting season, things slow down a bit early in the year.
But Hood River County residents who raise a few animals for their own meat—or to sell to other people for their needs—start bringing livestock to Jason in late spring.
“They want to get in before county fair season starts,” Toria says. Mountain Valley Meat is scheduled to serve buyers this year at the Hood River, Wasco, Klickitat, Sherman and Skamania county fairs. Theirs is the only facility of its kind in Hood River County, and one of only two in the Gorge.
“We do a lot for the Krepps Ranch (in Klickitat County),” Jason says. “We also do a lot of smoked turkeys and hams. We do 80 for Thanksgiving, and 100 for Burlington Northern for the holidays.” Demand exceeds capacity at Mountain Valley Meat. Since taking over in late 2014, the Johnstons have added a new freezer that tripled capacity on wrapped meats.
They want to expand the building and redesign the production flow inside. For now, they are handling as much meat as they can. “We’re booked solid through January,” Jason says. Brian and Latricia Knox from Longview, Washington, loaded beef into coolers in the back of their pickup truck on a late October morning. They say it is worth the drive to know the people who raised the animal—Richard and Roberta Stearns of Odell—and the people who cut and wrapped it.
“I can’t buy beef in the grocery store,” Latricia says. Jason and his crew have adjusted some recipes, added their own, and put a new spin on their brined and smoked products. Jason says they are not licensed to sell product retail, but can do a variety of custom cuts up to wholeanimal preparations for private parties or restaurants. Demand for smoked product has doubled, Jason says. Sara Link of Goldendale is one of the company’s happy customers.
“Last year in July, my son got married, and I took a couple hogs over to Jason to have him smoke them whole for the reception,” Sara says. “Everybody ‘oohed’ and ‘ahhed’ at the meat. They said it was the best they’ve ever had.” Sara has other, closer options for processing her hogs, “but I prefer to take them to Parkdale,” she says.
Toria runs the front office after years of medical transcription. She says she and her husband have no regrets. She can tend to the baby at the other end of the room, and her husband is right across the driveway. Jason says it is hard work, but not as hard as working cell towers. “I’m here to midnight every day,” he says. “There’s a ways to go to get it like we want. But I get to see the kids every day, go to their school events and I get to kiss them goodnight.”
For more information on Mountain Valley Meat Service, go to its Facebook page or call (541) 352-6322.